purlJam

# Soft Light Blue Zip-Up Summer Cardigan
### A Beginner-Friendly Crochet Kimono-Style Cardigan

A breezy, boxy zip-up cardigan worked in simple half double crochet. Made from five flat rectangles with dropped shoulders — no complicated shaping. Perfect for warm days in soft, light blue cotton.

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## SKILL LEVEL
**Easy / Beginner** — straight rectangles, basic stitches, simple seaming.

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## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** Sport-weight (#2 Fine) cotton yarn in **Soft Light Blue**
  - 100% cotton recommended for breathable summer drape
  - Approx. yardage by size below
- **Hook:** US H-8 / **5.0 mm** (using a slightly larger hook than typical for sport weight gives a softer, drapier summer fabric)
- **Separating zipper** (open-end jacket zipper) matched to finished front length
- Tapestry/yarn needle
- Sewing needle + matching thread (to attach zipper)
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Optional: blocking mat and pins

### Approximate Yarn Requirements (Total Yards)
| Size | Yards | Meters |
|------|-------|--------|
| XS   | 1100  | 1006   |
| S    | 1250  | 1143   |
| M    | 1400  | 1280   |
| L    | 1550  | 1417   |
| XL   | 1700  | 1554   |
| 2XL  | 1900  | 1737   |

*Buy one extra skein to be safe — dye lots vary.*

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## GAUGE
**18 hdc × 14 rows = 4 in (10 cm)** in half double crochet.
- That is **4.5 stitches per inch** and **3.5 rows per inch**.
- **Make a swatch!** Chain 22, work hdc rows until ~5 in tall, measure the center.
- If your fabric is stiff, go up a hook size; if loose and gappy, go down a size.

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## ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms)
| Abbr | Meaning |
|------|---------|
| ch | chain |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| sc | single crochet |
| hdc | half double crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| rep | repeat |
| fhdc | foundation half double crochet |

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## SIZING & FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
This cardigan is designed with a relaxed, boxy fit (about 6–8 in positive ease). Choose your size by desired finished bust.

| Size | To Fit Bust | Finished Bust | Body Length | Sleeve Length | Sleeve Width |
|------|-------------|---------------|-------------|---------------|--------------|
| XS   | 30–32 in    | 38 in         | 22 in       | 17 in         | 15 in        |
| S    | 32–34 in    | 42 in         | 23 in       | 17 in         | 16 in        |
| M    | 36–38 in    | 46 in         | 24 in       | 18 in         | 18 in        |
| L    | 40–42 in    | 50 in         | 25 in       | 18 in         | 19 in        |
| XL   | 44–46 in    | 54 in         | 26 in       | 18 in         | 20 in        |
| 2XL  | 48–50 in    | 58 in         | 26 in       | 18 in         | 21 in        |

**Stitch Counts Used (verified against gauge of 4.5 sts/in):**

| Size | Back width | Back sts | Each Front sts | Body rows | Sleeve sts | Sleeve rows |
|------|-----------|----------|----------------|-----------|-----------|-------------|
| XS   | 19 in     | 86       | 43             | 77        | 68        | 60          |
| S    | 21 in     | 95       | 47             | 81        | 72        | 60          |
| M    | 23 in     | 104      | 52             | 84        | 81        | 63          |
| L    | 25 in     | 113      | 56             | 88        | 86        | 63          |
| XL   | 27 in     | 122      | 61             | 91        | 90        | 63          |
| 2XL  | 29 in     | 131      | 65             | 91        | 95        | 63          |

*Math check (Size M): Back 104 sts ÷ 4.5 = 23.1 in ✓. Two Fronts 52 + 52 = 104 sts = full back width ✓ (zipper takes up no fabric width). Body 84 rows ÷ 3.5 = 24 in ✓.*

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## CONSTRUCTION NOTES
- This is a **T-shaped kimono cardigan**: the body and sleeves are simple rectangles. There is **no armhole shaping, no shoulder shaping, and no sleeve tapering** — making it ideal for beginners.
- Shoulders are **dropped**, so the sleeve seam sits below your natural shoulder.
- The front is **open with a zipper** closure, finished with a neat single crochet band.
- The turning ch-1 at the start of each hdc row does **NOT** count as a stitch.

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# THE PATTERN

*Instructions are written for **Size XS**, with other sizes in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). If only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.*

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## 1. BACK PANEL (make 1)

**Foundation:** Using fhdc (or ch + 1 and work hdc into 2nd ch from hook), make a foundation row of
**86 (95, 104, 113, 122, 131) hdc.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across. — 86 (95, 104, 113, 122, 131) sts.

**Rows 2 and on:** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.

Repeat until the panel measures **22 (23, 24, 25, 26, 26) in** —
about **77 (81, 84, 88, 91, 91) rows.**

Fasten off. Set aside.

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## 2. LEFT FRONT PANEL (make 1)

**Foundation:** Make **43 (47, 52, 56, 61, 65) fhdc.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across. — 43 (47, 52, 56, 61, 65) sts.

**Following rows:** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.

Work the **same number of rows as the Back** — 77 (81, 84, 88, 91, 91) rows — so panels match in length.

Fasten off.

### Optional simple neckline (recommended, beginner-easy):
On the **last 5 rows**, at the **neck edge only** (the inner front edge), skip the last 3 sts before turning, working 3 fewer sts each of those rows to create a gentle scooped neck. This is optional — a straight edge is perfectly fine for a beginner.

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## 3. RIGHT FRONT PANEL (make 1)
Work **exactly the same as the Left Front**. If you added the optional neckline shaping, mirror it on the opposite (neck) edge.

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## 4. SLEEVES (make 2)

The sleeves are **wide rectangles** — same width top to bottom (no tapering).

**Foundation:** Make **68 (72, 81, 86, 90, 95) fhdc.**

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across. — 68 (72, 81, 86, 90, 95) sts.

**Following rows:** Ch 1, turn. Hdc in each st across.

Repeat until sleeve measures **17 (17, 18, 18, 18, 18) in** —
about **60 (60, 63, 63, 63, 63) rows.**

Fasten off. Make a second sleeve the same way.

*Math check (Size M sleeve): 81 sts ÷ 4.5 = 18 in wide ✓; 63 rows ÷ 3.5 = 18 in long ✓.*

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# ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces flat to even out stitches and improve drape before seaming.

1. **Shoulder seams:** Lay the Back flat (RS up). Place a Front on top (RS together) at the top edge. Seam straight across each shoulder using mattress stitch or sl st, leaving the center open for the neck. Seam the same amount on both sides (about 4–5 in per shoulder), leaving the middle of the back-neck edge open between the two Fronts.

2. **Mark sleeve placement:** Open the joined piece flat (like a T). Measure down **8.5 (9, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5) in** from each shoulder seam along the body sides and mark — this equals half the sleeve width.

3. **Attach sleeves:** Center the top edge of each Sleeve at the shoulder seam, lining the sleeve's full width between your marks. Seam the sleeve top edge to the body **perpendicular** (at a right angle) for a true dropped-shoulder.

4. **Side seams:** Fold the cardigan with RS together. Starting at the underarm, seam each side down to the hem.

5. **Sleeve seams:** Continue seaming each sleeve's underside from underarm to cuff.

6. Weave in all ends.

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# BORDER PATTERN

Worked in single crochet for a tidy, firm edge that supports the zipper.

### A. Front, Neck & Hem Edging
Join yarn at the bottom corner of the Right Front.

**Round 1:** Ch 1. Sc evenly up the Right Front edge, around the back neck, down the Left Front edge, and across the hem — working about **3 sc for every 4 row-ends** along vertical edges and **1 sc per st** along horizontal edges. Work 3 sc in each outer corner. Join with sl st if working all the way around, or work in rows along each edge if you prefer.

**Rounds 2–3:** Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in each outer corner.

Fasten off after Round 3.

*Tip: Keep both front edges with the **same stitch count** so the zipper lies flat.*

### B. Cuff & Hem Trim (optional)
For a clean finish, work 2 rounds of sc around each cuff and around the hem. To snug the cuffs slightly, you may sc2tog every 6th st on the first cuff round.

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# ATTACHING THE ZIPPER

1. Close the cardigan fronts and lay flat. **Measure the front opening length** (from hem edging to neck edging) and buy a separating jacket zipper that matches — or slightly shorter — this length.
2. With the cardigan zipped/closed, pin the **closed** zipper behind the two front sc bands, teeth centered in the gap, fronts just meeting.
3. Using a sewing needle and matching thread, **baste** the zipper in place, then **backstitch** down each side, keeping stitches close to the teeth and the band edges even.
4. Remove basting. Test the zipper glides smoothly.

*Beginner tip: Keep the bottom zipper stops aligned at the hem so the cardigan hangs even.*

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# FINISHING
- Weave in any remaining ends.
- Give the cardigan a final **light blocking** to open up the fabric and soften the drape.
- Your **Soft Light Blue Summer Zip-Up Cardigan** is ready to wear!

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## QUICK REFERENCE — FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (in Soft Light Blue)
| Size | Bust | Length | Sleeve Length | Sleeve Width |
|------|------|--------|---------------|--------------|
| XS   | 38 in | 22 in | 17 in | 15 in |
| S    | 42 in | 23 in | 17 in | 16 in |
| M    | 46 in | 24 in | 18 in | 18 in |
| L    | 50 in | 25 in | 18 in | 19 in |
| XL   | 54 in | 26 in | 18 in | 20 in |
| 2XL  | 58 in | 26 in | 18 in | 21 in |

Happy crocheting! 💙