purlJam

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# SUMMER SKY TRIANGULAR LACE SHAWL

### A Top-Down Garter Stitch Shawl with Lace Border

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
- **Main Color (MC):** Cascade 128 Superwash Heather in *Summer Sky* — 5 skeins (approx. 640 yards / 585 m total)
- **Contrast Color (CC):** Cascade 128 Superwash Heather in *Jet* — 1 skein (approx. 128 yards / 117 m)
- *Cascade 128 Superwash Heather: 100% Superwash Merino Wool; 128 yds / 117 m per 100 g skein; bulky weight*

**Needles:**
- US 10.5 / 6.5 mm circular needle, 32 inches (80 cm) or longer (to accommodate stitch count)
- *Adjust needle size as needed to obtain gauge.*

**Notions:**
- 2 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
- Measuring tape

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## GAUGE

**14 stitches × 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in garter stitch, after blocking**
*(Garter stitch: knit every row; 2 rows = 1 garter ridge)*

> **Gauge matters for finished dimensions.** Take time to swatch and block your swatch before beginning. A gauge swatch of at least 6 × 6 inches is recommended.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

- **Wingspan:** Approximately 68–70 inches (173–178 cm) after blocking
- **Depth at center:** Approximately 34–35 inches (86–89 cm) after blocking

*Dimensions are approximate; finished size will vary based on individual gauge and blocking.*

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## DIFFICULTY LEVEL

**Intermediate** — Knitter should be comfortable with increases (k-f/b, yo), decreases (k2tog, ssk), and reading a simple lace chart or written lace instructions.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| yo | yarn over |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| k-f/b | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| rep | repeat |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| MC | main color (Summer Sky) |
| CC | contrast color (Jet) |
| BO | bind off |
| CO | cast on |

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction:** This shawl is worked from the top center down, beginning with 3 stitches. Increases are worked at each end of the needle and on both sides of the center spine marker every right-side row, adding 4 stitches per RS row. The result is a classic triangular shawl shape.

2. **Center Spine:** The single stitch between the two markers is the center spine stitch. It is always knitted and is flanked by yarn overs on RS rows, creating a decorative eyelet column running the full length of the shawl.

3. **Selvedge:** The first stitch of every row is slipped purlwise with yarn in front, then the yarn is brought to the back before working the next stitch. This creates a neat, chained selvedge edge. *Do not work this slip stitch as a k-f/b; it is purely a selvedge stitch.*

4. **Reading Rows:** On right-side (RS) rows, the shawl faces you. On wrong-side (WS) rows, the shawl faces away. All WS rows are plain knit rows (garter stitch).

5. **Color Change:** The contrast color (CC/Jet) is joined at the beginning of the lace border. Break MC before beginning the lace section.

6. **Stitch Count Check:** After the body section, you should have **243 stitches** on your needle: 1 selvedge + 120 sts (left wing) + yo + 1 center spine st + yo + 120 sts (right wing) + 1 selvedge = 243 sts. *(Math: 3 cast-on sts + 4 increases × 60 RS rows = 3 + 240 = 243 sts. ✓)*

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: CAST ON AND SETUP

Using MC and a long-tail cast on (or your preferred method), **CO 3 stitches**.

**Setup Row (WS):** Slip 1 purlwise wyf, k1, pm, k1, pm, k1.
*(3 sts: 1 selvedge, 1 left-side st, [marker], 1 center spine st, [marker], 1 right-side st — Note: the first and last sts serve double duty as selvedge and wing stitches at this early stage)*

> **Tip:** At this tiny stitch count, the selvedge slip-stitch will be established more clearly once you have worked a few increase rows. Simply work the Setup Row as written.

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### SECTION 2: GARTER BODY (MC / SUMMER SKY)

Work the following two rows as a unit, repeating for the body of the shawl.

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**RS Increase Row (Right Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, *k to 1 st before marker, k-f/b*, sm, yo, k1 (center spine st), yo, sm, *k-f/b, k to last st*, k1.
*(4 sts increased: k-f/b before each marker + yo after each marker = +4 sts total)*

**WS Row (Wrong Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, k to end.
*(No increases; simply knit all stitches)*

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**Repeat these 2 rows (RS Increase Row + WS Row) 59 more times for a total of 60 RS increase rows worked (120 total rows in the garter body, not counting the Setup Row).**

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#### STITCH COUNT PROGRESSION (Reference)

| After RS Row # | Total Stitches |
|---|---|
| 1 | 7 |
| 5 | 23 |
| 10 | 43 |
| 20 | 83 |
| 30 | 123 |
| 40 | 163 |
| 50 | 203 |
| 60 | 243 |

*Formula: 3 + (RS row number × 4) = total sts. Example: 3 + (60 × 4) = 243 sts. ✓*

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**After completing Row 60 (RS) and its corresponding WS row, you should have 243 stitches on your needle.**

> **Stitch Count Check:** Count your stitches: you should have equal numbers of stitches on either side of the center spine marker, plus the 2 markers and 1 center spine stitch. Each wing (from selvedge to the yo before/after the center spine) should hold **121 stitches** including its selvedge. *(121 × 2 + 1 center spine st = 243 sts. ✓)*

Break MC, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail for weaving in.

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### SECTION 3: LACE BORDER (CC / JET)

The lace border is worked over **8 rows** (4 RS rows + 4 WS rows) using CC. This creates a delicate eyelet lace frame along the lower edge of the shawl. The lace increases continue to add 4 stitches every RS row, maintaining the triangular shape.

**Join CC:** Join CC yarn at the beginning of a RS row.

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#### LACE BORDER ROWS

**Lace RS Row 1 (Right Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, *k to 1 st before marker, k-f/b*, sm, yo, k1 (center spine), yo, sm, *k-f/b, k to last 3 sts*, k2tog, yo, k1.
*(+4 sts from increases; the k2tog, yo at the end creates the first lace eyelet on the right edge)*

**Lace WS Row 1 (Wrong Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, yo, k2tog, k to end.
*(yo, k2tog at the beginning creates the lace eyelet on the left edge as seen from RS)*

**Lace RS Row 2 (Right Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, *k to 1 st before marker, k-f/b*, sm, yo, k1 (center spine), yo, sm, *k-f/b, k to last 3 sts*, k2tog, yo, k1.
*(+4 sts)*

**Lace WS Row 2 (Wrong Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, yo, k2tog, k to end.

**Lace RS Row 3 (Right Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, *k to 1 st before marker, k-f/b*, sm, yo, k1 (center spine), yo, sm, *k-f/b, k to last 5 sts*, (k2tog, yo) twice, k1.
*(+4 sts; two eyelets at right edge)*

**Lace WS Row 3 (Wrong Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, (yo, k2tog) twice, k to end.
*(two eyelets at left edge)*

**Lace RS Row 4 (Right Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, *k to 1 st before marker, k-f/b*, sm, yo, k1 (center spine), yo, sm, *k-f/b, k to last 5 sts*, (k2tog, yo) twice, k1.
*(+4 sts)*

**Lace WS Row 4 (Wrong Side):**
Slip 1 purlwise wyf, (yo, k2tog) twice, k to end.

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**After completing all 8 lace border rows, you should have 243 + (4 × 4) = 259 stitches.** *(Math: 243 + 16 = 259 sts. ✓)*

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### SECTION 4: BIND OFF

**Bind off loosely on a RS row** using a stretchy bind off method. The following method is recommended for lace edges:

**Yarn Over Bind Off:**
*K1, *yo, k1, pass both the yo and the previous stitch over the new stitch; rep from * to end.*

Alternatively, use a needle one to two US sizes larger than your working needle for a standard bind off to ensure the edge is stretchy and will open up well during blocking.

Break CC, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail.

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## FINISHING

### Weaving In Ends
Thread the tapestry needle with each yarn tail and weave in securely on the wrong side of the work, following the direction of stitches for at least 1–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm). For the MC and CC join, weave each tail in a different direction to prevent unraveling.

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## BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS

Blocking is **essential** for this shawl. It will open up the lace border, even out the garter stitch fabric, and bring the shawl to its full finished dimensions.

**You will need:** Blocking mats, rust-proof pins (at least 30–40 pins recommended), and a spray bottle filled with cool water, OR a basin of cool water.

**Wet Blocking Method (Recommended for Superwash Merino):**

1. Fill a clean basin or sink with cool water. Do not use hot water, as superwash wool can still stretch excessively when hot and agitated.
2. Gently submerge the shawl and allow it to soak for **15–20 minutes**, until fully saturated. Do not agitate or wring.
3. Lift the shawl from the water, supporting its full weight. Gently press (do not wring or twist) the water out against the side of the basin.
4. Lay the shawl flat on a clean, dry towel. Roll the towel up with the shawl inside and press firmly to remove excess water. Unroll and repeat with a second dry towel if needed.
5. Lay the damp shawl on your blocking mats. Begin by pinning the center top point, then pin the two top corners of the wingspan.
6. Gently stretch the shawl to its full dimensions — approximately **68–70 inches (173–178 cm)** across the top wingspan edge and **34–35 inches (86–89 cm)** from top center to the bottom center point.
7. Pin along the top edge at even intervals (every 3–4 inches / 7–10 cm), maintaining a straight line.
8. Pin along both diagonal side edges, gently stretching the fabric. For the lace border, use extra pins to open each individual eyelet, creating neat V-shapes or scallops along the lower edge.
9. Allow to dry **completely** before unpinning — typically 24–48 hours depending on humidity and air circulation. A fan placed nearby will speed drying.
10. Once fully dry, unpin and enjoy your finished shawl.

> **Superwash Fiber Note:** Superwash treated wool fibers do not felt and are machine washable, but the superwash coating can cause the yarn to grow significantly when wet. This is why cool water and no agitation is critical. Always lay flat to dry — never hang a wet knit item, as gravity will distort the shape.

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## SCHEMATIC

```
         ●─────────────────────────────────────────●
          \          Top Edge (Wingspan)           /
           \                                      /
            \   ← Garter Body (MC/Summer Sky) →  /
             \                                  /
              \   ← Center Spine Eyelet Line →  /
               \                              /
                \   Lace Border (CC / Jet)   /
                 \  ∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿  /
                  \∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿∿/
                   ●  (Center bottom point)

  |←————————— ~68–70 inches ————————————→|
                     ↕ ~34–35 inches
```

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## YARN USAGE ESTIMATE

| Section | Color | Estimated Yardage |
|---|---|---|
| Garter Body | MC (Summer Sky) | ~580–620 yards |
| Lace Border | CC (Jet) | ~100–115 yards |
| **Total MC (5 skeins)** | **Summer Sky** | **~640 yards available** |
| **Total CC (1 skein)** | **Jet** | **~128 yards available** |

*These are estimates. Actual yardage will vary with individual knitting tension. If your gauge is looser than listed, you may have less yarn remaining. Always check your gauge before beginning.*

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

**Cascade 128 Superwash Heather is machine washable.**
- Machine wash on **gentle/delicate cycle** in cool water.
- Use a mesh laundry bag for extra protection.
- **Lay flat to dry.** Do not tumble dry, iron, or dry clean.
- Store folded flat, away from direct sunlight to preserve color.

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*Pattern designed for intermediate knitters. Please read all pattern notes before beginning. Enjoy your Summer Sky shawl!*

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