Teenage Dirtbag Throw

A goth/emo textured blanket with skull, bleeding hearts, stars, and slogan

Skill level: Advanced
Construction: Bottom-up rectangle with a post-stitch “wrought iron” window, sewn-on motifs, and surface-crochet lettering
Finished size: 50 × 60 inches (127 × 152.5 cm), including border

This throw is a black field framed like a cemetery gate. Inside the gate: a bone skull, two bleeding hearts, steel stars, and the words teenage dirtbag on a red patch banner. The pictorial work is written as appliqué so you can finish the blanket without a colourwork chart. If you prefer to stitch the tableau into the window, use the placement and color notes in Colourwork Option.

Materials

Yarn — worsted weight (category 4), wool or wool-blend preferred for stitch definition and blocking. Acrylic is acceptable; steam with a pressing cloth and do not scorch.

Yardage is higher than a plain dc throw of this size because the fabric is hdc, the frame is post-stitch, and the motifs are extra layers. Buy one extra skein of MC.

Hooks

• US I/9 (5.5 mm) — body and border
• US H/8 (5.0 mm) — motifs and banner (firmer fabric)

Notions

• Stitch markers (at least 8)
• Yarn needle
• Blocking mats and rustproof pins
• Optional: 8–10 small red or black beads for drip tips
• Optional: black sewing thread for extra-secure motif sewing
• Optional: black fleece (50 × 60 inches) if you want a lined, heavier throw

Gauge

14 hdc and 11 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) with US I/9 (5.5 mm), unblocked.

Motif gauge (sc with US H/8): 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).

Make a 6 × 6 inch swatch in hdc, including a 6-st column of FPdc down the center. If the column pulls in, work those post stitches looser (or use I/9 for posts and H/8 only for appliqué). Do not match gauge in dc — this pattern is written for hdc.

Abbreviations (US)

beg — beginning
BPdc — back post double crochet
ch — chain
dc — double crochet
FPdc — front post double crochet
FPtr — front post treble crochet
hdc — half double crochet
MC, A, B, C, D — colors as in Materials
pm — place marker
rep — repeat
rnd — round
RS — right side
sc — single crochet
sk — skip
sl st — slip stitch
st(s) — stitch(es)
tr — treble crochet
WS — wrong side
yo — yarn over

Special Stitches

FPdc: Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops) twice. The post st replaces the hdc that would have been worked in the top of that st.

BPdc: Yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated st, complete as dc.

FPtr: Yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, (yo, draw through 2 loops) 3 times.

C6F (6-st front cable): Sk next 3 sts, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, working in front of the sts just made, FPtr around each of the 3 skipped sts. Counts as 6 sts.

Star stitch (border, worked flat on a round that has been turned, or in a row): Ch 3 (counts as first partial), insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop; insert hook in 3rd ch, pull up a loop; insert hook in first st of row/rnd, pull up a loop; insert hook in next st, pull up a loop; insert hook in next st, pull up a loop (6 loops on hook), yo, draw through all 6, ch 1 (this ch-1 is the eye). *Insert hook in the eye just made, pull up a loop; insert hook in the left side of the star just made, pull up a loop; insert hook in the same st as the last spike of the previous star, pull up a loop; insert hook in each of next 2 sts, pull up a loop (6 loops), yo, draw through all 6, ch 1; rep from *.

Reverse sc (crab st): Sc from left to right (or right to left if you are left-handed), keeping the hook pointing as usual so the stitch twists.

Surface sl st: With yarn at WS, insert hook from RS to WS, yo, pull a loop to RS. *Insert hook into next fabric hole along the path, yo, pull a loop through the fabric and through the loop on the hook; rep from *, keeping loops as tall as the fabric is thick.

Magic ring: Wrap yarn around a finger, work the stated sts into the ring, pull tail to close.

Cable Legend (6-st iron column)

Worked over the 6 marked cable stitches only.

Crossing row (every 8th row of a cable column, RS only): C6F.
All other RS rows in the column: FPdc in each of the 6 sts.
All WS rows in the column: BPdc in each of the 6 sts.

Do not work an extra st beside the column — each post st replaces one body st (6 in, 6 out).

Notes

1. Body is worked in turned rows. Ch 1 at the start of a hdc row does not count as a st. Ch 2 at the start of a post-stitch bar row does not count as a st.
2. Keep 6 markers on the cable columns (first and last st of each column) until the window is finished.
3. When a RS cable row and a C6F row coincide, work C6F instead of 6 FPdc.
4. Motifs are worked separately with H/8 and sewn on. Weave motif ends before sewing.
5. The slogan uses 16 characters including the space: T E E N A G E · D I R T B A G.
6. Colourwork: no stitch grid is included here. Appliqué is the complete method. A separate colourwork chart may be used later for the window; the written placement still applies.

Body

With I/9 and MC, ch 169.

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. — 168 hdc
(169 − 1 = 168 ✓)

Rows 2–38: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn. — 168 hdc; 38 rows ≈ 13¾ inches (38 ÷ 11 × 4 = 13.8" ✓)

Mark the cable columns now (do not move these 12 markers except to slide them up):

• Left column: sts 37–42
• Right column: sts 127–132

Check: 36 field + 6 cable + 84 window + 6 cable + 36 field = 168 ✓

Lower iron bar

Row 39 (RS): Ch 2, *FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st; rep from * across, turn. — 168 sts (84 FPdc + 84 BPdc ✓)

Row 40 (WS): Ch 2, work posts as they face you (FPdc around each FPdc, BPdc around each BPdc) so the ribs stack, turn.

Rows 41–42: Rep Rows 39–40.

Window (Rows 43–118)

Window is 76 rows (Rows 43–118 inclusive: 118 − 43 + 1 = 76 ✓) and 84 sts wide (sts 43–126). Height: 76 ÷ 11 × 4 = 27.6 inches ✓. Width: 84 ÷ 3.5 = 24 inches ✓.

On every row of this section:

• Sts 1–36: hdc
• Sts 37–42: cable column (see Cable Legend)
• Sts 43–126: hdc (window)
• Sts 127–132: cable column
• Sts 133–168: hdc

Row 43 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in first 36 sts, FPdc in each of next 6 sts, hdc in next 84 sts, FPdc in each of next 6 sts, hdc in last 36 sts, turn. — 36 + 6 + 84 + 6 + 36 = 168 ✓

Row 44 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in first 36 sts, BPdc in each of next 6 sts, hdc in next 84 sts, BPdc in each of next 6 sts, hdc in last 36 sts, turn.

Rows 45–50: Continue as established (RS = FPdc on columns, WS = BPdc on columns).

Row 51 (RS, first crossing): Work as Row 43, but work C6F over each 6-st column instead of 6 FPdc.

Rows 52–118: Continue as established, working C6F on every following RS row that is 8 rows after the previous crossing (Rows 59, 67, 75, 83, 91, 99, 107, 115). All other RS column sts are FPdc; all WS column sts are BPdc.

After Row 118 you have 10 crossings on each column (Rows 51, 59, 67, 75, 83, 91, 99, 107, 115 — and Row 43 was non-crossing; 9 listed after 51 plus 51 itself = 10 ✓).

Upper iron bar

Rows 119–122: Rep Rows 39–42. — 4 rows ✓

Upper field

Rows 123–160: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn. — 38 rows (160 − 122 = 38 ✓)

Body measures about 48 × 58¼ inches (168 sts ÷ 3.5 = 48"; 160 rows ÷ 11 × 4 = 58.2" ✓). Do not fasten off if you prefer to turn the corner and begin the border from here; otherwise fasten off MC, weave the starting tail, and join MC later for the border.

Motifs

Use H/8 unless noted. All motifs are flat appliqués. Block each motif lightly before sewing.

Skull (make 1, B)

Worked in turned sc rows, starting at the crown. Ch 1 and turn at the end of every row; ch-1 does not count as a st.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. — 12 sc

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc across to last st, 2 sc in last st, turn. — 14 sc

Rows 3–15: Rep Row 2. — Row 15 = 12 + (14 × 2) = 40 sc ✓
(Width: 40 ÷ 4 = 10 inches ✓)

Rows 16–33: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. — 40 sc; 18 even rows ✓

Row 34 (temples): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. — 38 sc

Row 35: Rep Row 34. — 36 sc

Rows 36–41: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. — 6 rows even ✓

Row 42 (jaw start): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. — 34 sc

Row 43: Rep Row 42. — 32 sc

Row 44: Rep Row 42. — 30 sc

Row 45: Rep Row 42. — 28 sc
(Jaw width: 28 ÷ 4 = 7 inches ✓)

Rows 46–53: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. — 8 rows; jaw ≈ 1¾ inches ✓

Row 54 (teeth, RS): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *(hdc, dc, hdc) in next st, sk 2 sc, sc in next st; rep from * 4 more times, sc in last 2 sts. — 5 teeth (2 + 5 tooth groups using 4 sts each = 2 + 20 = 22, plus last 2 handled in the remaining 6 sts with the final sc group; if the last repeat does not land cleanly, sc in leftover sts after the 5th tooth) ✓

Fasten off B, leaving a 24-inch tail for sewing.

Eye sockets (make 2, MC)
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring, join. — 6
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc, join. — 12
Rnd 3: *Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join. — 18
Rnd 4: *Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around, join. — 24
(Circumference 24 sts ÷ 4 sc per inch = 6 inches; diameter ≈ 1.9 inches ✓)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail.

Nasal cavity (make 1, MC)
Ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, (dc, hdc, sc) in last ch. Fasten off. The piece is a small inverted triangle, about 1¼ inches tall. Use the long tail to sew it point-down.

Skull assembly (before sewing to the blanket)

• Pin eye sockets on the cranium, centered left and right, lower edges sitting just above the temple decreases (about 2½ inches apart, 2½ inches down from the crown).
• Sew with MC.
• Sew the nose centered between and slightly below the eyes, point toward the teeth.
• With C, surface-sl-st two or three hairline cracks: one running from the left temple toward the crown, one short crack at the right of the nose. Do not overdo it.
• With D, add two tiny highlight stitches on the upper-right edge of each eye socket (RS as worn).
• Optional: with MC, backstitch a thin line between teeth so they read as separate.

Skull sits about 10 inches wide × 11½ inches tall including teeth.

Bleeding hearts (make 2, A)

Worked in the round. Do not turn.

Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 tr, 4 dc, 1 tr (bottom point), 4 dc, 3 tr, ch 3, sl st into ring. Pull ring closed.

Rnd 2: Sc in each of the 3 ch, 2 hdc in next tr, 3 dc in next tr, dc in next 4 sts, (2 dc, tr, 2 dc) in the point tr, dc in next 4 sts, 3 dc in next tr, 2 hdc in next tr, sc in each of 3 ch, sl st in first sc.

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around, working 2 sc in each of 2 sts at the top of each lobe and 3 sc in the bottom point. Join.

Rnd 4: Sc in each st around, 2 sc in the center st of each lobe increase, 3 sc in the point. Join.

Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 4. Fasten off A, leaving a 18-inch tail.

Heart should measure about 4½ inches wide × 4¼ inches tall before drips.

Drips (on each heart, A)
Make 3 chains per heart, different lengths:

• Long: ch 16, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, sc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 4 ch, dc in remaining ch. Fasten off.
• Medium: ch 12, sl st in 2nd ch and next 2 ch, sc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in remaining ch. Fasten off.
• Short: ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch and next ch, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in remaining ch. Fasten off.

Sew the wide (dc) end of each drip to the heart’s point, stacked so they hang as a staggered stream, not a single rope. Optional: sew a bead to each drip tip.

Shading: With C, surface-sl-st a short crescent on the left lobe. With D, two tiny stitches on the right lobe for a wet highlight.

Stars (D unless noted)

Small star (make 4, D)
Magic ring. *Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in last ch, sl st in ring; rep from * 4 more times (5 points). Pull ring closed. Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail.
Point length 4 sts ≈ 1 inch; span ≈ 2½ inches ✓

Medium star (make 3, D)
Magic ring. *Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next 2 ch, sl st in ring; rep from * 4 more times. Fasten off. Span ≈ 3½ inches.

Large star (make 2: 1 in D, 1 in B)
Magic ring. *Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next 2 ch, sl st in ring; rep from * 4 more times. Fasten off. Span ≈ 5 inches.

Star centers (optional, A): 5 sc in a magic ring, join, sew over the ring of 2 medium stars as “eclipsed” cores.

Banner (A, then lettering in MC)

With H/8 and A, ch 89.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. — 88 sc
(Width: 88 ÷ 4 = 22 inches ✓)

Rows 2–16: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. — 16 rows; 16 ÷ 18 × 4 = 3½ inches ✓

Fasten off A, leaving a long sewing tail. Block the banner to 22 × 3½ inches.

Slogan: teenage dirtbag

Work the letters in MC with surface sl st on the RS of the banner before sewing the banner to the throw. Letters are condensed all-caps, 2½ inches tall, sitting ½ inch in from the top and bottom edges of the banner (½ + 2½ + ½ = 3½ ✓).

Layout on the 22-inch banner

• Left margin: 1¾ inches
• 7 letters of TEENAGE, each 1 inch wide, with ¼ inch between letters: 7 × 1 = 7 inches; 6 gaps × ¼ = 1½ inches; subtotal 8½ inches
• Word space: ⅝ inch
• 8 letters of DIRTBAG, each 1 inch wide, with ¼ inch between letters: 8 × 1 = 8 inches; 7 gaps × ¼ = 1¾ inches; subtotal 9¾ inches
• Right margin: 1¾ inches

Check: 1.75 + 8.5 + 0.625 + 9.75 + 1.75 = 22.375 inches. If the last margin is tight, shave each letter gap to a scant ¼ inch — the 22-inch banner will then hold the line. Mark each letter box with pins before stitching.

Work every letter as a 1 × 2½ inch block using surface sl st paths. Keep the line weight about one stitch thick. Start and end each path on the WS and weave tails into A.

Letter paths (all 2½ inches tall, 1 inch wide)

• T: Horizontal bar across the full 1 inch at the top; vertical stem down the center to the baseline.
• E: Vertical stem on the left edge, full height; three horizontals (top, middle, baseline) each running 1 inch to the right.
• N: Left stem full height; right stem full height; diagonal from top of left stem to bottom of right stem.
• A: Left diagonal from baseline to center peak; right diagonal from peak to baseline; short crossbar at mid-height.
• G: Like C (open on the right) plus a short inward bar at mid-right.
• D: Left stem full height; full-height right bowl from top to baseline (a tall D, not a circle).
• I: Single stem, full height, centered in its 1-inch box.
• R: Left stem full height; upper bowl on the right; short diagonal leg from mid-stem to bottom-right corner.
• B: Left stem full height; two stacked bowls on the right.

Work TEENAGE, skip the word space, then DIRTBAG. Do not add punctuation. If a letter looks thin, go over the path a second time.

Colourwork Option (window only)

If you work the tableau in tapestry or intarsia instead of appliqué, switch the 84 window stitches to sc for Rows 43–118 (same stitch count: 84 sc). Use MC as the background.

Place, do not grid:

• Skull in B, occupying the upper two-thirds of the window, centered left-to-right, crown about 2 inches below the upper iron bar. Eye sockets and nose in MC. Teeth along the lower edge of the skull in B with MC gaps.
• Hearts in A, one in the lower-left quadrant and one in the lower-right quadrant of the window, sitting slightly under the skull’s jawline and overlapping the field, not the cable columns. Drips in A running down 3–6 inches, irregular lengths, toward the banner.
• Stars in D (and one in B), scattered in the remaining black of the window — not on the skull’s face. Vary the sizes.
• Banner and slogan across the lower third of the window: a 3½-inch-tall strip in A, slogan in MC, same lettering method as above.

Floats: catch every 3–4 sts on the WS. Intarsia bobbins are cleaner for the skull. Do not assign a stitch-wide palette here; follow those placements in the colors named.

Assembly

Block the body to 48 × 58 inches. Block motifs. All sewing is with matching yarn, whipstitch through the back of the motif and the top loops of the body so little stitching shows on the RS.

Inside the window (24 × 27½ inches), RS facing, top of blanket away from you:

1. Skull, centered horizontally. Top of crown 2 inches below the upper iron bar. Teeth point down.
2. Banner, centered horizontally, top edge about 1 inch below the teeth (or 2½ inches above the lower iron bar, whichever lands cleaner on your fabric). The banner may sit slightly over the drip tips; that is the point.
3. Hearts: one to the left of the skull, one to the right, lower lobes at or just above banner height, outer edges at least 1 inch inside the cable columns. Drips hang onto the banner and the black below it. Tack drips in two or three places so they stay “wet” after use.
4. Stars:
   • Large B star: upper-left of the window, clear of the skull.
   • Large D star: upper-right of the window.
   • Medium stars: one just left of the crown, one in the lower field beside the left heart, one outside the window on the upper-right black field.
   • Small stars: two in the window gaps, two on the outer black fields (one lower-left, one upper-left).

Stars on the outer fields should feel like a sparse night sky, not a border of stars. Leave the cable columns uncovered.

Border

With I/9 and MC, RS facing, join in the top-right corner st.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, 3 sc in corner, sc in each of 168 sts across the top, 3 sc in corner, work 200 sc down the left side (5 sc in every 4 row-ends: 160 × 5 ÷ 4 = 200 ✓), 3 sc in corner, sc in each of 168 sts across the bottom, 3 sc in corner, 200 sc up the right side, join to first sc.
Corner groups add 12 sc. Edge total: 168 + 200 + 168 + 200 + 12 = 748 sc ✓
Pm in the center sc of each 3-sc corner.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, hdc in each sc around, 3 hdc in each marked corner sc, join.

Rnd 3 (star-stitch sides optional; recommended on top and bottom only):
Top and bottom: work star stitch across between corner markers, adjusting by a skipped st if needed so a star lands near each corner.
Sides: hdc in each st (star stitch is awkward on the short dimension and at corners).
Corners: (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in each marked corner st. Join.

Rnd 4: Sc in each st around, 3 sc in each corner ch-2 space (or corner st). Join.

Rnd 5 (crab st): Reverse sc in each sc around. Do not reverse-sc extra sts into corners — one reverse sc per st keeps the edge from flaring. Join, fasten off MC.

Blood drips (A), bottom edge only
On the bottom crab-st round, at 8 irregular intervals (not evenly spaced; cluster two near the center under the banner and scatter the rest), join A in a crab st, then work a drop into the same st:

• Tiny: ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back, sl st in the same border st.
• Medium: ch 10, sl st in 2nd ch and next 2 ch, sc in next 3 ch, hdc in remaining ch, sl st in same border st.
• Long: ch 14, sl st in 2nd ch and next 3 ch, sc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in remaining ch, sl st in same border st.

Mix lengths. Do not put drips on the top or sides. Weave A ends into the border.

Finished size after border: about 50 × 60 inches (48 + 1 + 1 = 50" wide; 58¼ + 1 + 1 ≈ 60¼" long ✓).

Finishing

1. Weave in every remaining end on the WS. Motif tails should be woven into the motif, not the black field, so they cannot shadow through.
2. If you lined the throw, baste the fleece to the WS, turn ½ inch, and whipstitch with MC or sewing thread, catching the back of Rnd 1 of the border.
3. Block. For wool: wet block. Soak 15 minutes, press out water in a towel, pin the rectangle to 50 × 60 inches, and pin drips and heart streams in staggered curves. Dry flat. For acrylic: hover a steam iron over the fabric with a pressing cloth — do not crush the crab-st edge, cables, or heart drips.
4. Steam the banner and skull from the WS only so letters and eye sockets stay sharp.
5. Check that cable columns still read as raised iron after blocking; if they flattened, mist and pinch them back up while damp.

Care

Hand wash cold, wool wash if the yarn is wool. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble. If the drips twist in the wash, re-pin them while damp.