Knit-Flat Short-Sleeve T-Shirt Fairy Dress (puffy princess sleeves, leaflike skirt) for 19cm Silicone Doll (Chest 15cm)

Scale: designed to fit a 19cm tall silicone doll with chest circumference 15cm. Knit flat and seam. Includes elf shoes, upside-down-flower hat and ballet cardigan. Techniques used: stockinette, ribbing, simple increases/decreases, gathered sleeve cap and leaf panel shaping. All instructions are row-by-row.

Materials

• Yarn: Fingering weight (4-ply). Recommended amount: approx 30g total for full outfit (dress + skirt + hat + cardigan + shoes). Imperial & Metric: ~1.06 oz (30 g) / ~137 yards (125 m). Note: you will use much less; keep a small skein (25–50 g) for color changes.
• Needles (knit flat, straight or short needles): US 1 (UK 13 / Metric 2.25 mm) main; optional smaller for tighter edges US 0 (UK 14 / Metric 2.0 mm) for rib and edges.
• Tapestry needle, scrap yarn or stitch holder, stitch markers, small elastic or thread for gathering sleeve caps and hat center, small amount of stuffing for hat center if desired, sewing pins, fine sewing needle and matching sewing thread.

Gauge

Stockinette: 30 sts = 10 cm (4") and 40 rows = 10 cm (4") on 2.25 mm needles. This gives approx 3 sts / cm and 4 rows / cm. Because the doll is small, gauge matters; make a 4cm x 4cm swatch and adjust needle size if necessary.

Finished measurements

• Chest circumference: 15 cm
• Dress bodice length (shoulder to waist/top of skirt): ~5 cm
• Short sleeve finished length (shoulder to sleeve hem): ~2–2.5 cm; puffed volume depends on gathered ease
• Skirt length (tip of leaf to waist seam): ~5.5 cm (adjust by adding or subtracting rows)

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit (RS)
• P = purl (WS)
• K2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• M1 = make one (lift strand between sts and knit through back loop)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• pm = place marker

Notes

• Pattern is knit flat with seams. Work exactly the stitch counts and rows for intended fit; small yarn/needle changes will affect fit quickly with doll scale garments.
• Where numbers result in half-stitches, round to nearest whole stitch and make mirror shaping on both halves.
• For the puffy sleeve, we create a small sleeve tube, gather at cap and hem to achieve puff and attach to armhole opening created by leaving side seam gap at underarm.

BODY (T-SHIRT STYLE) - Row-by-row

We knit Back and Front separately then seam shoulders and sides, leaving armhole openings for sleeves.

Back

Using 2.25 mm needles: CO 23 sts.
Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1* across. (rib)
Rows 2-6: repeat Row 1. (6 rows rib = approx 1.5 cm)
Switch to stockinette, change to st st rows.
Row 7 (RS): K across.
Rows 8-20: Repeat Rows 7-8 alternating (14 rows stockinette). (Back length from CO to underarm ~5.0 cm total)
After Row 20 (WS): BO 2 sts at beginning of next two rows to start slight shoulder slope if desired, otherwise BO all sts loosely on WS and set aside. (Optional: for very simple sew-flat, do not BO; leave as rectangle.)

Front (neck shaping)

Using 2.25 mm needles: CO 22 sts.
Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1* across. (rib)
Rows 2-6: repeat Row 1.
Switch to stockinette.
Row 7 (RS): K to end.
Rows 8-12: Knit even in st st (5 rows). (This makes front slightly shorter to allow neckline shaping.)
Begin neck shaping (RS row is a knit row):
Row 13 (RS): K9, BO4, K9. (bind off center 4 sts for shallow neckline)
Row 14 (WS): P across each side separately (purl 9, purl 9). Work the two sides separately from now on.
Row 15 (RS): Right side: K to last 2 sts, K2tog (dec neck edge). Left side: (start WS for other piece next row) work mirrored decreases on subsequent RS rows.
Row 16 (WS): P across both pieces.
Row 17 (RS): Right side: K to last 2 sts on that half, K2tog. Left side mirrored.
Rows 18-20: Continue even in st st on both shoulder halves (no more neck decreases). You should have approx 7 sts on each short shoulder segment. BO each side loosely on a WS row or leave on scrap for seaming (recommended: BO loosely and leave ends for sewing).

Note: If you prefer a deeper neck, bind off 6 center sts and decrease once less on edges. Adjust counts small amounts as desired.

Seaming body and creating armholes

1. Place Back RS to Front RS aligning shoulders; using mattress stitch seam the shoulder segments (approx 7 sts each side). If your back had more sts, distribute seam so shoulders look even.
2. Seam sides from hem up to 2.0 cm (approx 8 rows) leaving the top ~2 cm open for armholes (underarm gap = short-sleeve opening). Measure to ensure the armhole opening height is ~2 cm. For a 5 cm bodice, seam up 3 cm from hem leaving 2 cm for sleeve opening. Because our pieces were ~5 cm, seam up about 3 cm (12 rows) from hem; exact counts: seam up 12 rows then stop -- leave the rest open for sleeves.

PUFFY PRINCESS SHORT SLEEVES (pair) - Row-by-row

We knit two small tubes, gather one edge to create a puff and sew into armhole.

Using 2.25 mm needles:
CO 18 sts. Join as flat tube: Row 1 (RS) K across.
Row 2 (WS) P across.
Rows 3-10: Repeat Rows 1-2 (8 rows) until sleeve length measures approx 2.0 cm.
To create puff: On RS (next row) increase evenly across to gather: *K1, M1* repeat to end to double sts to 36 (increase 18 sts). Work 1 WS purl row.
Work 2 rows in garter stitch (K every row) to stabilize gather edge.
BO all sts loosely.
Finishing: Fold sleeve lengthwise so hem edges meet and seam the underarm seam. Pull the increased edge gently to gather to fit the armhole opening (measure armhole width across the opening; gather sleeve head to that width with running thread or elastic). Sew gathered edge into the armhole opening, distribute fullness evenly to get the puff."

LEAFLIKE SKIRT - Row-by-row (make 6 leaf panels then seam into circular skirt)

We create 6 identical triangular leaf panels that when seamed give a flared leaflike skirty hem. Each leaf is knit flat, pointed at hem and wide at waist. Gauge and counts chosen to produce skirt circumference ~15 cm with slight overlap at seams.

Leaf Panel (make 6):
Using 2.25 mm needles: CO 9 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Row 3 (RS): K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (Increase 2 sts) -> 11 sts.
Row 4 (WS): P across.
Row 5 (RS): K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. (Increase 2 sts) -> 13 sts.
Row 6 (WS): P across.
Continue increasing on RS every 2nd RS row until you have 25 sts (this will be approx 8 increase RS rows). Work the WS rows purl between increases.
When you reach 25 sts, work even in st st for 10 rows to create leaf body length.
Begin tapering to a pointed tip at hem: On RS rows decrease 1 st at each edge every RS row (K2tog at right edge, SSK at left edge) until 9 sts remain.
Work 1 WS row purl and BO all sts. Block each panel lightly to leaf shape.
Assembly: With right sides together, seam panels edge to edge; after joining last panel to first you will have a circular skirt with 6 leaf seams. Gather top edges lightly; top edge length per panel when joined should give approx 15 cm circumference (adjust by adding/subtracting increases or number of panels if you need more fullness). Sew top edge of skirt to waist of bodice, matching center back seam and easing fullness evenly. Use small whipstitch and secure well.
Note: If skirt feels short/tiny, make panels deeper by adding more even rows prior to tapering.

ELF SHOES (pair) - Row-by-row

Using 2.25 mm needles:
Cast on 10 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K across.
Row 2 (WS): P across.
Rows 3-6: Work st st (3 cm length from cuff to toe start) or until shoe reaches underside of doll foot.
Shape toe: Row 7 (RS): K2, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, SSK, K2. (dec 2 sts)
Row 8 (WS): P across.
Row 9 (RS): K2, K2tog, K to last 4 sts, SSK, K2. (dec 2 sts)
Repeat decreases until 6 sts remain. BO remaining sts, fold shoe and seam instep and heel leaving small opening to insert foot; use a small running stitch to close heel and shape a curled tip (optional small i-cord or crochet chain for curled toe embellishment). Add small embroidered strap across instep if desired with contrast yarn.

UPSIDE-DOWN FLOWER HAT (hat shaped like an upside-down flower)

We knit a small circular crown in wedge panels flat and gather to flower shape.
Using 2.25 mm needles:
CO 30 sts.
Rows 1-6: *K1, P1* rib for a folded brim (6 rows) then switch to st st.
Row 7 (RS): K across.
Rows 8-12: Work even st st for crown depth ~1.5 cm.
Wedge shaping to create petals: On RS rows, K across but at 6 evenly spaced points work an eyelet row to make petal divisions: for example, Row 13 (RS): *K4, yo, K4, yo* etc. Or work 6 small short rows to create petal flaps.
After forming petal separations, BO on WS row leaving long tail. Pull tail through cast-on edge to gather crown rim to fit doll head (~9-10 cm head circumference; test on doll) and cinch to form inverted flower shape. Sew gathered points into soft petal shapes, secure with a small stitch. Add small embroidered or knitted center bud (a 6-st i-cord loop stuffed lightly) sewn in center and inside of hat attach soft lining if you like.
Variation: Crochet a small picot at petal tips or use a contrasting color for petal edges.
Notes: Because the hat is decorative upside-down flower, ensure the gathered crown flares outward when placed on head. Tighten gather so that brim edge sits at hairline and petals point downwards.

BALLET CARDIGAN (tiny open-front shrug)

Using 2.0 or 2.25 mm needles for tidy edges:
Back: CO 20 sts.
Rows 1-8: K1,P1 rib for 8 rows (this creates the back yoke).
Rows 9-20: Switch to st st and work even until back piece measures approx 3.5 cm.
Left Front: CO 8 sts.
Rows 1-8: Rib same as back.
Rows 9-20: Work st st even to match back length.
Right Front: Make mirror image of left.
Assembly: Seam shoulder seams joining back to fronts. Seam side seams about 1.5 cm from hem leaving open for arms. Pick up stitches around neckline with 2.0 mm needles and work 4 rows of K1,P1 rib and BO loosely to form neat edging. Optionally add tiny satin ribbon ties at chest or a small pearl button and loop at right front.

FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends neatly on the WS.
2. Block pieces lightly: lay flat and shape leaf panels to pointed tips. Do not over-wet silicone dolls may be affected by water near them; block flat on a towel and let dry fully before dressing the doll.
3. Sew skirt to bodice evenly, then seam sides and shoulders before sewing sleeves into armholes for neater inside finish.
4. For puffier sleeves: add a couple more increases at the sleeve head (work M1 twice per edge instead of once) and gather more tightly when sewing in.
5. Attach hat and shoes; the hat may be lightly glued in place inside if you want a permanent styling (hand-stitch recommended).

Simple schematic illustrations

Schematic (dimensions in cm) - use as a guide to position seams and measure lengths:

Leaf panel stitch chart (schematic):

Leaf increases: start small, increase at both edges on RS until desired width, work even, then reverse decreases to a point. Visual:    /
   /  
  /    
 /______\

Sizing adjustments

• To make dress wider: increase body CO proportionally using gauge (3 sts per cm). For each extra 1 cm chest add 3 sts overall (1.5 sts per half - round up).
• Skirt fullness: add more leaf panels (8 panels for fuller skirt) or make each panel wider by more increases.

Troubleshooting and small tips

• If neckline is too tight, unpick front neck shaping and CO more center stitches before shaping; binding off 6 center sts gives a wider neck.
• To make sleeves less puffy reduce increases at sleeve head or gather less when sewing in.
• Use contrasting yarn for embroidered veins on leaves: embroider a central line and a few side veins before seaming panels together.

Care

Hand wash the knitted outfit in lukewarm water with mild soap, reshape on towel and dry flat. Avoid long contact of wet garment with silicone doll surface; dry garment fully before dressing doll.

Contact & copyright

Pattern by PurlJam. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.

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