Blush Bell Summer Cardigan

A lightweight, oversized T-shaped kimono cardigan with dramatic bell sleeves. Worked flat in simple half double crochet rectangles (plus easy edge increases on the sleeves), this easy summer layer is designed for sport-weight cotton in pink. Wear it open over tanks and dresses; optional crochet ties are included.

Skill level: Easy

Construction: Back, two fronts, and two sleeves are worked separately in rows, then seamed. There is no armhole, shoulder, or waist shaping. Sleeves join at right angles to the body (dropped-shoulder T-shape) and flare from the upper arm to a wide bell cuff.

Sizes

S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

To fit bust: 32–36 (36–40, 40–44, 44–48, 48–52, 52–56)" / 81–91 (91–102, 102–112, 112–122, 122–132, 132–142) cm

Shown in size M (intended with 8–12" / 20–30 cm positive ease).

Instructions are written for size S, with M, L, XL, 2X, and 3X in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Circle your size throughout before you begin.

Finished Measurements

Materials

Yarn: Sport weight (Category 2), cotton or cotton-bamboo/linen blend, in pink (blush, dusty rose, watermelon, or coral). A plant-fiber sport yarn gives the drape this summer cardigan needs.

• Yardage: 1400 (1550, 1750, 2000, 2250, 2500) yd / 1280 (1420, 1600, 1830, 2060, 2290) m
• Approximately 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) skeins at 325 yd / 297 m per 3.5 oz (100 g)

Hook: US 7 (4.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge. If the swatch feels stiff, go up to US H-8 (5 mm) for a more drapey summer fabric.

Notions:

• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• 6 stitch markers
• Measuring tape
• Optional: 1 button or toggle, ¾–1" (2–2.5 cm)

Gauge

16 hdc and 12 rows = 4" (10 cm) in half double crochet, unblocked, using US 7 (4.5 mm).

Swatch: Ch 21. Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [20 hdc] Work 14 rows even in hdc. Measure the center 4" (10 cm).

• 16 sts = 4" → 4 hdc = 1" (2.5 cm) ✓
• 12 rows = 4" → 3 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) ✓

Gauge is slightly forgiving because of the oversized fit, but width (stitch gauge) matters more than row gauge. Adjust hook until stitch gauge is correct; add or subtract rows to hit length.

Abbreviations (US)

• ch — chain
• hdc — half double crochet
• inc — increase (2 hdc in the same stitch)
• pm — place marker
• rep — repeat
• RS — right side
• sc — single crochet
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• WS — wrong side

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

Pattern Notes

• The body is three rectangles: one back and two fronts. There is no armhole shaping, no waist shaping, and no shoulder slope.
• Bell sleeves start as a straight upper-arm tube, then increase 1 stitch at each end of every row to flare into a trumpet cuff.
• Turning chain: Ch 1 at the start of every hdc row. The ch-1 does not count as a stitch. Work the first hdc into the first stitch of the row so edges stay firm for seaming.
• Right side: Row 1 of every piece is the RS.
• Stitch counts appear in brackets at the end of a row whenever the count changes.
• For a neater foundation edge, work Row 1 into the back bump of each chain.
• Read through the whole pattern once before starting. Circle your size in the numbers.
• Wet-block all pieces before seaming so the cotton opens and the bells take shape.

Back

With US 7 (4.5 mm) hook and pink yarn, ch 89 (97, 105, 113, 121, 129).

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [88 (96, 104, 112, 120, 128) hdc] (89 − 1 = 88; 97 − 1 = 96; 105 − 1 = 104; 113 − 1 = 112; 121 − 1 = 120; 129 − 1 = 128 ✓) Width check: 88 ÷ 4 = 22"; 96 ÷ 4 = 24"; 104 ÷ 4 = 26"; 112 ÷ 4 = 28"; 120 ÷ 4 = 30"; 128 ÷ 4 = 32" ✓

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across, turn. [88 (96, 104, 112, 120, 128) hdc]

Rows 3–66 (69, 72, 75, 78, 81): Rep Row 2.

Length check: 66 ÷ 3 = 22"; 69 ÷ 3 = 23"; 72 ÷ 3 = 24"; 75 ÷ 3 = 25"; 78 ÷ 3 = 26"; 81 ÷ 3 = 27" ✓

Fasten off. Weave in the starting tail; leave a long ending tail if you prefer to seam with it, or weave it in and seam with a new length later.

Fronts (make 2 alike)

Ch 45 (49, 53, 57, 61, 65).

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64) hdc] (45 − 1 = 44; 49 − 1 = 48; 53 − 1 = 52; 57 − 1 = 56; 61 − 1 = 60; 65 − 1 = 64 ✓) Width check: 44 ÷ 4 = 11"; 48 ÷ 4 = 12"; 52 ÷ 4 = 13"; 56 ÷ 4 = 14"; 60 ÷ 4 = 15"; 64 ÷ 4 = 16" ✓ Bust check (back + 2 fronts): 22 + 11 + 11 = 44"; 24 + 12 + 12 = 48"; 26 + 13 + 13 = 52"; 28 + 14 + 14 = 56"; 30 + 15 + 15 = 60"; 32 + 16 + 16 = 64" ✓

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across, turn. [44 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64) hdc]

Rows 3–66 (69, 72, 75, 78, 81): Rep Row 2. Work the same number of rows as the Back so the side seams match.

Fasten off.

Bell Sleeves (make 2)

Sleeves are worked from the armhole edge down to the cuff so the flare lands at the lower arm.

Ch 73 (77, 81, 85, 89, 97).

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [72 (76, 80, 84, 88, 96) hdc] (73 − 1 = 72; 77 − 1 = 76; 81 − 1 = 80; 85 − 1 = 84; 89 − 1 = 88; 97 − 1 = 96 ✓) Upper-arm width: 72 ÷ 4 = 18"; 76 ÷ 4 = 19"; 80 ÷ 4 = 20"; 84 ÷ 4 = 21"; 88 ÷ 4 = 22"; 96 ÷ 4 = 24" ✓

Rows 2–20: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc across, turn. [72 (76, 80, 84, 88, 96) hdc] (20 rows ÷ 3 = 6¾" / 17 cm even section — the straight upper sleeve, with flare beginning near the elbow on a dropped shoulder ✓)

Pm in the first and last stitch of Row 20 as a reminder that increases begin on the next row.

Bell increases

Row 21 (inc): Ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each st to last st, 2 hdc in last st, turn. [74 (78, 82, 86, 90, 98) hdc] (+2 sts ✓)

Rows 22–48: Rep Row 21. Each row adds 1 st at each edge.

You will work 28 increase rows total (Rows 21–48). (48 − 21 + 1 = 28 increase rows ✓) (28 rows × 2 sts = 56 sts added ✓)

Final cuff count:

• S: 72 + 56 = 128 hdc ✓
• M: 76 + 56 = 132 hdc ✓
• L: 80 + 56 = 136 hdc ✓
• XL: 84 + 56 = 140 hdc ✓
• 2X: 88 + 56 = 144 hdc ✓
• 3X: 96 + 56 = 152 hdc ✓

Cuff width: 128 ÷ 4 = 32"; 132 ÷ 4 = 33"; 136 ÷ 4 = 34"; 140 ÷ 4 = 35"; 144 ÷ 4 = 36"; 152 ÷ 4 = 38" ✓

Total sleeve length: 48 rows ÷ 3 = 16" (40.5 cm) ✓

To lengthen or shorten: Work more or fewer even rows before Row 21. Do not skip increase rows or the bell will change width. Every 3 rows added or removed changes length by 1" (2.5 cm).

Fasten off, leaving a long tail (about 24" / 61 cm) for the sleeve underarm seam.

Finishing

Block the pieces first

Wet-block all five pieces to the finished measurements in the table. Pin the sleeve cuffs to the full bell width so the flare sets. Allow to dry completely. Cotton relaxes and drapes after blocking; seaming unblocked pieces will make the bells look narrower and the body stiffer.

Shoulder seams

Lay Back flat, RS up. Place Fronts on top, RS down (RS together). Align the outer top corners.

Seam each shoulder from the outer edge inward for 5.5 (6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8)" / 14 (15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5) cm — that is 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) sts on the Back matched to 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) sts on the Front.

(22 sts ÷ 4 = 5.5"; 24 ÷ 4 = 6"; 26 ÷ 4 = 6.5"; 28 ÷ 4 = 7"; 30 ÷ 4 = 7.5"; 32 ÷ 4 = 8" ✓)

Back neck left unseamed: 88 − 22 − 22 = 44 sts = 11"; 96 − 24 − 24 = 48 sts = 12"; 104 − 26 − 26 = 52 sts = 13"; 112 − 28 − 28 = 56 sts = 14"; 120 − 30 − 30 = 60 sts = 15"; 128 − 32 − 32 = 64 sts = 16" ✓

Each Front has 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32) sts left free at the inner neck edge — this forms the open front.

Use mattress stitch (invisible) or a slip-stitch crochet seam. Do not pull tight.

Attach sleeves (T-join)

1. Fold one Sleeve in half so the two side edges (row-ends) meet; the fold is the shoulder line of the sleeve.
2. Pin that fold to the shoulder seam, matching the Row 1 (short) edge of the sleeve to the body.
3. Pin the sleeve Row-1 edge along the body side edges: 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 12)" / 23 (24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 30.5) cm down the Back and the same distance down the Front. (Half of 18" = 9"; half of 19" = 9.5"; half of 20" = 10"; half of 21" = 10.5"; half of 22" = 11"; half of 24" = 12" ✓)
4. The sleeve top is a stitch edge; the body side is row-ends. Pin every 2" (5 cm) and ease the extra stitches in evenly (about 4 sleeve sts to 3 body row-ends).
5. Sew with mattress stitch or whipstitch. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Side and sleeve seams

With RS together (or WS together for mattress stitch), seam in one continuous line:

• From the hem up the side to the underarm, then
• From the underarm down the sleeve to the bell cuff.

The sleeve seam joins the two row-end edges of the sleeve. Because increases were worked at those edges, the seam sits at the underarm and the circumference grows toward the cuff — that is the bell.

Leave the last ½" (1.5 cm) of the cuff unseamed if you prefer to add the cuff edging in the round; otherwise seam to the end and work the cuff edging afterward.

Repeat on the other side.

Cuff edging

Join yarn at the sleeve seam on the RS of one cuff.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each hdc around, sl st to first sc to join. [128 (132, 136, 140, 144, 152) sc ✓]

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to join. Fasten off.

Repeat on the second cuff. This two-round sc edge keeps the bell from stretching out of shape.

Body Border

With RS facing, join yarn at the lower Right Front corner (as worn).

Round 1: Ch 1.

• Sc in each foundation ch across the Right Front hem.
• 3 sc in the corner.
• Sc evenly up the Right Front (1 sc in each hdc row-end).
• Sc in each unseamed st around the neck (Right Front neck sts, Back neck sts, Left Front neck sts).
• Sc evenly down the Left Front (1 sc in each hdc row-end).
• 3 sc in the corner.
• Sc in each foundation ch across the Left Front hem, 3 sc in the corner, sc in each foundation ch across the Back hem, 3 sc in the last corner.
• Sl st to first sc.

Corners: 3 sc in each of the four hem corners so the border lies flat.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in the center sc of each 3-sc corner. Sl st to join.

Round 3: Rep Round 2. Fasten off.

Three rounds of sc give the open fronts a clean, stable band without adding bulk. For a slightly firmer front edge, work Round 3 in the back loop only.

Optional Waist Ties (make 2)

Ch 61.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [60 sc] (61 − 1 = 60 ✓) Tie length: 60 sts at sc gauge is about 15" (38 cm); add chains if you want longer ties.

Fasten off. Sew one tie to the inside of each Front at the waist (about 9–10" / 23–25.5 cm up from the hem, or at your natural waist). Tie at the front, or wrap to the back like a sash.

Optional long sash (make 1 instead of 2): Ch 181, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. [180 sc] Weave through the side seams at the waist or simply wrap and knot.

Weave in ends and final block

Weave in all remaining ends on the WS. Steam- or wet-block the finished cardigan once more, shaping the bells and pinning the fronts so they hang straight. Lay flat to dry.

Schematic (not to scale)

              sleeve 16"
         _________________
        /                 \          bell cuff
       /    32–38" cuff    \         32 (33, 34, 35, 36, 38)"
      /                     \
     |      18–24" top       |
     |_______________________|
              |     |
   front      |     |      front
  11–16"   BACK 22–32"    11–16"
  ________|           |________
 |        |           |        |
 |        |           |        |   body length
 |        |           |        |   22 (23, 24, 25, 26, 27)"
 |________|___________|________|
          <—  bust 44–64"  —>

Dropped shoulder: the sleeve join sits on the upper arm, not at the natural shoulder. The 16" sleeve is a three-quarter-to-full bell on that dropped line.

Fit and customization

• Length: Add or subtract body rows in groups of 3 (1" / 2.5 cm). Keep Back and Fronts identical.
• More open fabric: Go up one hook size after matching width gauge as closely as you can; the fit is oversized on purpose.
• Less flare: Work only 20 increase rows (Rows 21–40), then work 8 rows even to 16". Cuff will be 8 sts (2") narrower than written.
• More flare: Continue increasing beyond Row 48, then add even rows for length.
• Color: Written for a solid pink. A tonal or lightly heathered blush hides hdc texture less and looks more polished; a bright watermelon pink reads more summer.

Care

For cotton or cotton-blend sport yarn: machine wash cold, gentle cycle, or hand wash. Lay flat to dry. Recheck sleeve bells after washing and reshape while damp.