purlJam

# Realistic Labrador Puppy Head — Crochet Pattern

**Skill Level:** Advanced
**Finished Size:** Approximately 12 cm long × 10 cm wide × 10 cm tall (4¾" × 4" × 4")
**Technique:** Amigurumi, worked in continuous spiral rounds (UK terminology)

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Fingering weight (4-ply) 100% merino or cotton, approximately:
  - 50 g in pale fawn/yellow (MC) — main head colour
  - Small amount in cream (CC1) — muzzle underside
  - Small amount in dark brown/black (CC2) — nose and mouth embroidery
- **Hook:** 2.25 mm (UK 13 / US B-1) — one size smaller than yarn label recommends, for tight fabric
- **Safety eyes:** 9 mm, amber or dark brown, 2
- **Fibrefill stuffing** (polyester)
- **Yarn needle** (tapestry needle)
- **Stitch marker** (locking)
- **Pins** for assembly
- **Small amount of black embroidery thread** for detailing
- Optional: fine brown fibre or brushed yarn for fuzzing the fabric

## Tension (Gauge)

32 dc × 32 rounds = 10 cm (4") square worked in continuous spiral.
Tight, dense fabric with no visible stuffing showing through.

## Abbreviations (UK terms)

- **ch** — chain
- **sl st** — slip stitch
- **dc** — double crochet (US sc)
- **htr** — half treble (US hdc)
- **tr** — treble (US dc)
- **inc** — 2 dc in same stitch
- **dec** — invisible decrease (insert hook in front loop only of next 2 sts, yo, pull through both loops, yo, pull through both loops on hook)
- **BLO** — back loop only
- **FLO** — front loop only
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **MR** — magic ring
- **rnd** — round
- **[ ]** — total stitch count at end of round
- **MC / CC** — main/contrast colour

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## Construction Overview

The head is worked in one piece from the **tip of the nose** backwards to the **neck opening**. The muzzle is sculpted with asymmetric increases so the top remains narrow while the jawline widens. Ears, eye recesses, and facial embroidery are added after shaping. Stuff firmly as you go for a realistic, weighty finish.

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## HEAD (worked from nose to neck, in MC unless stated)

### Muzzle — Nose Tip

**Rnd 1:** With CC2 (dark brown), 5 dc in MR. [5]
*(Nose tip — worked in brown to form the nose pad.)*

**Rnd 2:** inc in each st around. [10]
*(5 + 5 inc = 10 ✓)*

**Rnd 3:** (dc, inc) × 5. [15]
*(10 + 5 = 15 ✓)*

Fasten off CC2, join MC.

**Rnd 4:** Working in BLO of Rnd 3, dc in each st around. [15]
*(Creates a clean colour-change ridge where the nose meets the muzzle fur.)*

**Rnd 5:** (2 dc, inc) × 5. [20]
*(15 + 5 = 20 ✓)*

**Rnd 6:** dc in each st around. [20]

**Rnd 7:** (3 dc, inc) × 5. [25]
*(20 + 5 = 25 ✓)*

**Rnd 8:** dc in each st around. [25]

**Rnd 9:** (4 dc, inc) × 5. [30]
*(25 + 5 = 30 ✓)*

**Rnds 10–12:** dc in each st around. [30] (3 rounds)

### Shaping the muzzle bridge (asymmetric increase)

From here, increases are placed only along the **lower jaw and sides** to keep the top of the muzzle (nose bridge) slim — this is the key to a realistic Labrador profile.

**Rnd 13:** dc 10 (this is the top/bridge — no increases), (3 dc, inc) × 5. [35]
*(10 + 20 + 5 = 35 ✓)*

**Rnd 14:** dc in each st around. [35]

**Rnd 15:** dc 10, (6 dc, inc) × 3, dc 4. [38]
*(10 + 18 + 3 + 4 = 35 + 3 = 38 ✓)*

**Rnd 16:** dc in each st around. [38]

**Stop and insert safety eyes now:** place them at Rnd 15, spaced approximately 10 sts apart across the top of the muzzle/forehead junction (roughly 2 sts in from the bridge line either side). Secure washers on inside.

### Head dome — widening

**Rnd 17:** (dc 18, inc) × 2. [40]
*(38 + 2 = 40 ✓)*

**Rnd 18:** (4 dc, inc) × 8. [48]
*(40 + 8 = 48 ✓)*

**Rnd 19:** dc in each st around. [48]

**Rnd 20:** (7 dc, inc) × 6. [54]
*(48 + 6 = 54 ✓)*

**Rnds 21–26:** dc in each st around. [54] (6 rounds — this forms the back of the skull and cheeks)

**Begin stuffing firmly now.** Shape the muzzle with your fingers — push stuffing forward into the nose area to create a rounded, puppy-like snout.

### Closing — neck shaping

**Rnd 27:** (7 dc, dec) × 6. [48]
*(54 − 6 = 48 ✓)*

**Rnd 28:** (6 dc, dec) × 6. [42]
*(48 − 6 = 42 ✓)*

**Rnd 29:** (5 dc, dec) × 6. [36]
*(42 − 6 = 36 ✓)*

**Rnd 30:** (4 dc, dec) × 6. [30]
*(36 − 6 = 30 ✓)*

Top up stuffing firmly — the head should feel dense and hold its shape.

**Rnd 31:** dc in each st around. [30]
*(This leaves a neck opening for mounting on a body, or for finishing as a bust.)*

Fasten off, leaving a 30 cm tail for closing or attaching to a body.

**If finishing as a bust only:**
- Rnd 32: (3 dc, dec) × 6. [24]
- Rnd 33: (2 dc, dec) × 6. [18]
- Rnd 34: (dc, dec) × 6. [12]
- Rnd 35: dec × 6. [6]
- Cut yarn, thread through remaining 6 sts, pull tight, fasten off inside.

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## EARS (make 2, in MC)

Labrador ears are flat, triangular, and drop down beside the face.

**Ch 4.**

**Row 1:** dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch, turn. [3]

**Row 2:** ch 1, inc, dc, inc, turn. [5]

**Row 3:** ch 1, inc, dc 3, inc, turn. [7]

**Row 4:** ch 1, inc, dc 5, inc, turn. [9]

**Row 5:** ch 1, inc, dc 7, inc, turn. [11]

**Rows 6–14:** ch 1, dc in each st, turn. [11] (9 rows — ear length)

**Row 15:** ch 1, dec, dc 7, dec, turn. [9]

**Row 16:** ch 1, dec, dc 5, dec, turn. [7]

**Row 17:** ch 1, dec, dc 3, dec. [5]

Do not fasten off. Work 1 dc edging round around the entire ear (3 dc in the bottom corner) for a neat finish. Fasten off, leaving a 40 cm tail for sewing.

*Do not stuff ears — they should hang flat and floppy.*

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## EYE SURROUNDS (make 2, in MC) — optional for realism

Creates a subtle almond shape around each eye.

**Ch 6.** Work dc along the chain: dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc 3, 3 dc in last ch; rotate to work the opposite side: dc 3, inc in last st. sl st to join. [11]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stretch slightly when sewing around each eye to form an almond.

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## ASSEMBLY

1. **Shape the muzzle:** with black embroidery thread, stitch a vertical line from the centre-bottom of the nose down through the Rnd 3/4 join, continuing 2 rounds onto the muzzle to form the philtrum (the cleft under the nose).

2. **Mouth:** from the base of the philtrum, embroider a shallow "W" — two curves out to each side and slightly down — to form the lip line. Keep subtle.

3. **Eye surrounds:** pin the almond shapes around each safety eye, angled very slightly downward at the outer corner. Sew invisibly with matching MC using ladder stitch.

4. **Ears:** pin the ears to the sides of the head, with the top edge of each ear running from approximately Rnd 20 to Rnd 24, angled so the ear points forward and down. The widest part of the ear should sit just behind and slightly above the eye line. Sew the top edge down along about 4 cm using whip stitch with the long tail. The rest of the ear hangs free.

5. **Cheek definition (optional sculpting):** using a long length of MC and a doll needle, insert the needle at the base of one ear, pass through the head to the opposite side, pull gently to define the cheeks, and secure. Repeat front-to-back through the muzzle base to sink the stop (the dip between forehead and nose bridge).

6. **Brow detail:** with MC, embroider 2–3 small straight stitches above each eye at a slight angle to create a puppy-like expressive brow.

7. **Cream underside (optional):** with CC1, embroider satin-stitch patches under the chin and lower muzzle to lighten the jaw, mimicking Labrador colouring.

8. **Fuzzing (optional, for realism):** gently brush the surface of the head with a soft wire pet brush or seam ripper to raise the fibres and create a short fur effect. Test on a swatch first — this works best on non-superwash wool.

9. **Finishing the neck:** if attaching to a body, use the Rnd 31 opening. If displaying as a bust, complete Rnds 32–35 as given above.

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## Designer Notes

- **Realism tip:** Labradors have a well-defined "stop" (the dip between the forehead and muzzle). Emphasise this by sculpting with a long stitch pulled from cheek to cheek through the head at the Rnd 17/18 boundary.
- **Colour options:** substitute pale yellow MC with chocolate brown or black for other Labrador variants; keep the nose CC2 consistent (always black/dark brown).
- **Tension warning:** fingering weight amigurumi is unforgiving — keep stitches very tight. If stuffing shows through, drop to a 2.0 mm hook.
- **Eye placement is critical** — too high reads as a cartoon; keep them at the muzzle/forehead junction for realism.

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**Total stitch count verification:**
Muzzle peak: 30 sts by Rnd 12 ✓
Head widest: 54 sts by Rnd 20 ✓
Neck: 30 sts by Rnd 31 ✓ (symmetrical 24 st decrease from 54)

Enjoy creating your realistic Labrador puppy!