purlJam

# "Yarn Sketch" Boxy Pullover
### A Minimalist Beginner Machine-Knit Top

A relaxed, drop-shoulder pullover built from four simple rectangles. No shaping mid-piece, no fancy stitch patterns — just clean lines, like a sketch drawn in yarn. Perfect first machine-knit garment.

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (medium #4), approx. 800–1000 m / 875–1100 yds total
- **Machine:** Standard gauge (4.5mm) — note: worsted is at the upper limit; use max tension. *(Mid-gauge 6.5mm machines are ideal for this yarn — adjust tension down by 2 if using mid-gauge.)*
- **Tools required:**
  - Cast-on comb and claw weights
  - Ravel cord + waste yarn (10–15 rows)
  - 1-prong and 3-prong transfer tools
  - Latch tool (for bind-off and seaming)
  - Tapestry needle for finishing

---

## GAUGE / TENSION

- **Main Tension:** T9–T10 (loosest practical setting for worsted on standard gauge)
- **Stockinette swatch (washed & blocked):** 18 sts × 26 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm (4" × 4")
- **CRITICAL:** Knit a 40 st × 60 row swatch, wash and block before starting. Adjust tension if needed.

---

## SIZES

| Size | S | M | L | XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|
| Bust circumference (cm) | 90 | 100 | 110 | 120 |
| Cast-on per panel (sts) | 82 | 90 | 100 | 108 |
| Body length (cm / rows) | 54 / 140 | 56 / 146 | 58 / 152 | 60 / 156 |
| Sleeve cast-on (sts) | 36 | 40 | 44 | 48 |
| Sleeve top (sts) | 68 | 72 | 76 | 80 |
| Sleeve length (cm / rows) | 44 / 114 | 44 / 114 | 45 / 118 | 45 / 118 |

**Pattern written for size M. Other sizes in [brackets].**

Math check (M): 90 sts ÷ 1.8 sts/cm = 50 cm per panel × 2 panels = 100 cm bust ✓

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **RC** = Row counter
- **COL / COR** = Carriage on left / right
- **NWP / NOOW** = Needle in working position / out of work
- **T** = Tension dial (e.g., T9)
- **MY / WY** = Main yarn / Waste yarn
- **e-wrap CO** = e-wrap cast-on (or use cast-on comb method)
- **Latch bind-off** = Hand-tool bind-off using latch tool along needle bed

---

## PATTERN NOTES

- All four pieces are flat rectangles. No shaping until neckline bind-off on front.
- Drop-shoulder construction: sleeve top equals armhole depth × 2.
- Hems are doubled and hung back on needles for a clean mock-rib look (no ribber required).
- Carriage direction noted at each major step.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK PANEL

**Setup:**
1. Bring **90 [82, 100, 108]** needles to working position, centred around 0. Needles from L45–R45.
2. With WY, cast on using cast-on comb. Knit 10 rows at T7. End COL.
3. Insert ravel cord across all sts, knit 1 row.
4. Change to MY. **Set T9.** RC = 000.

**Hem (doubled):**
5. Knit 20 rows in MY at T9. End COR. RC = 020.
6. Knit 1 row at T10 (turning row). End COL. RC = 021.
7. Knit 20 rows at T9. End COR. RC = 041.
8. **Hang hem:** Using a 3-prong transfer tool, pick up the first row of MY (just above the ravel cord) and hang each loop onto its corresponding needle. Work across all 90 sts. Add claw weights evenly.

**Body:**
9. Reset RC = 000. Knit at T9.
10. Knit straight to **RC = 146 [140, 152, 156]**. End COL. *(Length above hem ≈ 56 cm)*

**Shoulder/Neck bind-off:**
11. With latch tool, bind off all 90 sts loosely across the bed. Cut yarn leaving a 60 cm tail for seaming.

---

### FRONT PANEL

Work exactly as **Back** to **RC = 126 [120, 132, 136]** (i.e., 20 rows before back's final RC). End COL.

**Neck shaping (simple bound-off neckline):**
12. **At RC = 126**, with COL, knit 1 row to COR.
13. **Bind off centre 40 sts** for neck: 
    - Count to find centre 40 needles (sts 26–65 from left, i.e., leave 25 sts each side).
    - Using latch tool, bind off the centre 40 sts loosely. The 25 sts on each side remain on the needles.
14. **Left shoulder (25 sts):** Push the right 25 sts to holding position (set carriage to **HOLD**). Knit 20 rows on left 25 sts only. RC = 146. Latch bind-off, leave 40 cm tail.
15. **Right shoulder (25 sts):** Cancel hold. Push left needles (now empty) out of work. Bring right 25 sts back to upper working position. Rejoin yarn at COL side. Knit 20 rows. Latch bind-off, leave 40 cm tail.

Math check: 25 + 40 + 25 = 90 sts ✓

---

### SLEEVES (make 2)

**Setup:**
1. Bring **40 [36, 44, 48]** needles to working position, centred around 0.
2. Cast on with WY + ravel cord as for back.
3. MY at T9. RC = 000.

**Cuff (doubled hem):**
4. Knit 16 rows at T9. End COR. RC = 016.
5. Knit 1 row at T10 (turning row). RC = 017.
6. Knit 16 rows at T9. End COR. RC = 033.
7. Hang hem as before. Add weights.

**Sleeve body — gradual increases:**
8. Reset RC = 000.
9. **Increase 1 st each end every 8 rows, 16 times total** (32 sts added).
   - At RC 008, 016, 024, … 128: with COL or COR, bring 1 new needle into work at each end. Use 1-prong tool to move the edge st outward by 1 needle, leaving an empty needle behind — *or* simply bring a new needle into NWP at each end (creates a small eyelet — acceptable for beginner, or use fully-fashioned by transferring 1 st in).

   **Simpler beginner method:** Bring 1 needle into NWP at each end. The first row will form a loop — gently pull tail to tighten.

10. After final increase, st count = 40 + 32 = **72 [68, 76, 80]** sts.
11. Knit straight to **RC = 114 [114, 118, 118]**. End COL.

Math check: 16 increases × 8 rows = 128 rows... we need 114. **Correction:** Work increases every 6 rows × 16 times = 96 rows, then knit straight from RC 96 to RC 114 (18 rows even). ✓

**Final bind-off:**
12. Latch bind-off all 72 sts loosely. Leave 80 cm tail for setting in.

---

## FINISHING

1. **Block all four pieces** to schematic measurements. Pin flat, mist with water, allow to dry fully. This evens out tension and is essential for clean seams.

2. **Shoulder seams:** With tapestry needle and MY tail, mattress-stitch the shoulder seams from armhole edge inward (25 sts each side), leaving the 40-st neck opening free.

3. **Set in sleeves (drop shoulder):**
   - Find the midpoint of the sleeve top (st 36 of 72).
   - Align this midpoint with the shoulder seam.
   - The sleeve top (72 sts ≈ 40 cm) becomes the armhole depth: pin 20 cm down from shoulder seam on both front and back.
   - Mattress-stitch sleeve to body.

4. **Side & underarm seams:** Sew in one continuous line from sleeve cuff, through underarm, down to body hem. Mattress stitch on stockinette.

5. **Neckline:** The bound-off neckline is the finished edge. Optional: pick up sts around the neck with latch tool and knit a 4-row rolled trim, or simply steam the edge flat.

6. **Weave in all ends** on the wrong side. Trim.

7. **Final steam-block** all seams flat.

---

## SCHEMATIC (Size M)

```
       50 cm                        50 cm
   ┌──────────┐                 ┌──────────┐
   │          │                 │  ┌────┐  │
   │   BACK   │ 56 cm           │  │neck│  │ 56 cm
   │          │                 │  └────┘  │
   │          │                 │  FRONT   │
   └──────────┘                 └──────────┘

          40 cm (sleeve top)
        ┌──────────────┐
       /                \
      /     SLEEVE       \  44 cm
     /                    \
    └──────────────────────┘
          22 cm (cuff)
```

**Finished bust:** 100 cm  
**Finished length:** 56 cm  
**Sleeve length (cuff to underarm):** 44 cm

---

### Beginner Tips

- **Weights matter:** Add a claw weight every 20 sts, move them up every 30–40 rows to prevent dropped stitches.
- **Listen to the carriage:** If it sounds strained, your tension is too tight — go up one number.
- **Don't skip the swatch.** Worsted yarn behaves very differently on a standard machine; gauge must be confirmed.
- **Mark RC milestones** on a sticky note as you go.

Enjoy your minimalist yarn-sketch top! ✏️🧶